1. Eliminate all undesirable weeds and excessive thatch.
  2. Cultivate the soil by aerating, coring, slicing, or tilling.
  3. Soil test should be taken to determine the pH and fertility level of the soil. Correct the soil pH by adding lime and fertilizer according to analysis.
  4. Apply fertilizer as recommended to the area and water. Use a starter fertilizer such as 18-24-12 unless soil test shows otherwise. Apply about 5-10 lbs per 1000 square feet.
  5. If the lawn is overseeded: drag, rake or use a slit seeder to get the seed down into the soil.
  6. Water as soon as possible after planting. Do not allow the newly planted material to become dry. Apply enough water to wet the soil 1-2 inches deep. Water in very early morning. Watering at night encourages disease problems.


Your sod should be rolled out the first day and watered the first hour after it is rolled out. If it is impossible to do this, you need to definitely keep the rolls in the shade and water the outside where the dirt and roots are exposed to the air.

Sod may be temporarily stored on pavement by rolling it out and keeping it moist by watering at least twice a day.

  1. Keep sod moist while rolled! Do not allow soil on outer rolls and edges to dry out.
  2. Prepare the soil: grade and remove rocks and debris.
  3. Loosen top layer of soil.
  4. Cultivate soil ¾”-1″ lower than existing or desired ground level to ensure a flush fit of the edges of the new sod to your existing sod.
  5. Work in lime if needed.
  6. Spread in a starter type fertilizer with high phosphorus content.
  7. Level ground to a smooth surface.
  8. Moisten (not muddy) your soil. Lay out the pieces of sod.
  9. If installing sod on a slope you should stagger the end of the rolls. This will help prevent trenches washing out.
  10. Place edges tightly together.
  11. Use a weighted roller, or tamp down with feet or hands to ensure contact with the ground.
  12. Water thoroughly.
  13. Sod should be kept damp in the beginning by watering twice daily. After two weeks you may be able to cut back to once per day. After six weeks – water every other day.

Your main objective is to not let the sod dry out!!!

If any part of the roots on your new sod is allowed to dry out, the sod will die. Be sure that you have a good tight fit on all of the edges so that no roots are exposed. Also check for any air pockets that could be caused by rocks, debris, or just not rolled down tightly enough.


  1. Prepare the soil-grade and remove rocks and other debris.
  2. Till 3-4″ deep. Work in lime if needed.
  3. Allow soil to settle. Fill in holes from high spots.
  4. Shallowly cultivate and work in a starter type fertilizer.
  1. Seed with desired seed at recommended rate.
  2. Rake seed lightly into soil.
  3. Cover lightly with straw.
  4. Water lightly and frequently until established.

For overseeding-cut seed rate by 1/2.

  1. Mow existing grasses short.
  2. Slice the soil ¼”-1/2″ deep using a slit seeder.
  3. Remove any thatch or other debris.
  4. Seed with desired seed at recommended rate.
  1. Lightly fertilize with a slow release fertilizer.
  2. Lightly cover seeds with straw.
  3. Water lightly and frequently until established.


  1. Mowing – 3 inches or higher. Keep mower blades sharp. Raise height to the upper end of range during the summer.
  2. Fertilizing – September, November, February, & April, as needed.
  3. Watering – Spring: minimal. Summer: 1 inch per week. Fall: only as needed to prevent wilting.
  4. Planting – September, October, November or March-April (overseeding), 4-6 lbs. seed per 1,000 sq. ft.
  5. Dandelions & Broadleaf Weeds – Treat early spring & through the season as needed.
  6. Crabgrass – Pre-emergent in late March.
  7. Grubs – Treat during May-August.
  8. Aerating – Early spring or fall, as needed.

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